by Sarah Rose Anderson
We had a very full day today with the two major highlights being the visit to the indigenous village set right on the edge of the Rio Negro River and sleeping overnight under the canopy of trees in the Amazon Rainforest.
After breakfast on the boat, we arrived at the indigenous village of Nova Esberenca, boasting 120 members. As we walked up, the first little building we came upon was the school house. We were invited in and it was perfect timing. The children had just lined up for their lunch of rice, minced beef, and manioc. Manioc is made from a root and is a staple of the diet of people living along the river. Many of the children smiled at us but were more concerned with eating than the mostly light skinned visitors that invaded their school house. Some of the children came over to let us take pictures. We showed them their image that was instantly produced on our digital cameras. Jonathan Floyd even showed two little boys how he recorded a video of them dancing. The inside of the classrooms reminded me of a smaller version of an American elementary school with little desks, all the letters of the alphabet on the wall, and boards displaying the children’s art work.
We left the schoolhouse and walked through the village to look at houses and vegetation. Trees and bushes that grow papayas, garlic, guava, lemongrass and some other natural medicinal remedies were spread throughout the village. They also had a garden. As we walked through we saw the village pet monkey and bright green parrot looking bird. Both were free to roam around. The village also had the same kind of pet dogs we had seen often in the days before.
Before we left, our group stopped by an open market where a few of the residents had set up shop with trinkets they had made by hand including jewelry, blow guns, and wood carvings. I bought my mom a necklace made with seeds from plants in the village and my dad a hand crafted blow gun.
Besides a well, gasoline, and the school lunches all provided by government, the indigenous village was self sufficient. With the nearest hospital hours away by motorboat, the villagers must know what to do when someone is sick or breaks a bone. It was odd to be in a “town” where I did not see a car, electric pole, or even a road. I did, of course, see a soccer field which is a necessity for all villages however big or small. As we left, some of the law students kicked around a soccer ball with several kids in front of the school house. Even though the kids did not know any English and most of us didn’t know any Portuguese, everyone understood when they started to play the game.
We got on the boat and headed to the next spot down the Rio Negro. Our boat was parked at a spot that looked like a postcard with two old canoes tied up to huge palm trees. After a lunch of fried catfish, beans, rice, papaya, and watermelon I went for a swim/bath. It is quite a task to tread water, wash your hair, scrub up, and then shave your legs. Hey, we may be in the Amazon, but a girl has to stay clean.
In the afternoon, most of our group packed up a bag to take out into the rainforest for our overnight stay. I have to mention that this was quite the opportunity for our group. None of the previous WVU students had the opportunity to sleep out in the Amazon, but our guide Anand (pronounced an-non-gee) offered and most of us gladly accepted. A few were not up to the challenge of a full night out in the open jungle. We packed up our hammocks we had been sleeping in the nights before and lots of deet. A lot of us found that deet became an adjective in that we had to “deet up” everyday, i.e. put on a lot of bug spray.
As I left off the boat following our guide, Anand, I had to seriously wonder if I was going to ever be seen again. If the jungle hike the day before had taught us anything it was that there are a great deal of dangers in the Amazon. I found my dad’s advice for this trip ringing in my head…”Sarah, don’t take any unnecessary chances.” This was my first trip out of the country and not a great occasion to not take dad’s advice. I decided that Anand was probably the best guide in all of Amazonia and that it was also a once in a lifetime exp
erience. I trekked on.
We hiked about a mile into the rain forest until we reached the spot. I felt helpless standing there with my backpack while Anand and his helpers sprung into action making camp. They all wielded big machetes (which I found is a must for the rainforest) chopping palms for the fire shelter, gathering wood, and making fire. They showed us how to tie up our hammocks in small trees. I found out that putting your hammock in two big trees is a bad idea because jaguars can climb the big ones.
Just as every hammock had been hung, it hit. Our group was caught in a typical torrential downpour of the rain forest. Most us grabbed up our hammocks and crowded under the palm fire shelter and a tarp. Some of the guys stayed out in the rain to help the guides. Its hard to explain what a rain storm in the Amazon rain forest is like. It is exciting and electric. (See for yourself by viewing the clip below.)
After the rain finally stopped those of use hiding under the shelter put up our hammocks once again. Anand got the fire going while the rest of us reset up for the night.
We had been eating very well all week on the boat thanks to our cook Antonia, but that night, I officially had the best chicken I have ever, ever tasted. The chicken marinated all day and was brought out to the forest in a big trash bag. I was wary. Anand cut some 3 foot long stick skewers and put the chicken and bananas over the fire. Meanwhile we all made our dinner plate out of big green leaves. When dinner was ready Jenny Flanigan and I parked in a hammock together to share our big chicken skewer and eat. Jenny’s method was to eat the chicken off the skewer, while I used the stick like a shish kabob. We lost out prim and proper ways long ago.
After dinner it was already dark. I went to my hammock while some others sat around the fire talking about politics and racial inequalities. To get ready for bed I hung up my shoes and backpack, got in my sleep sack wearing shirt, socks, pants and jacket, armed myself with my head lamp and camera, and then got into my hammock. Rain drops trickling down through the forest canopy kept landing on my head so I cover my face with my rain jacket. At first I kept turning on my light to make sure nothing was in my bed. I thought all of the night sounds and the fear of being eaten, stung, or bit by some creature would keep me awake. However today was a long, long day and I fell asleep rather fast.
Morning came quickly. When I woke up to the daylight, it was 6am. I felt really rested and with no bugs in my bed. I know my mom would really crack up if she knew I got up at 6am voluntarily. We all packed up our hammocks and cleaned up camp then headed out. When I hiked out of the forest and saw our boat, a sense of accomplishment came over me. I had just done something few people in the world will ever have the chance to do, sleep all night in the Amazon. Plus, I lived.
We had a very full day today with the two major highlights being the visit to the indigenous village set right on the edge of the Rio Negro River and sleeping overnight under the canopy of trees in the Amazon Rainforest.
After breakfast on the boat, we arrived at the indigenous village of Nova Esberenca, boasting 120 members. As we walked up, the first little building we came upon was the school house. We were invited in and it was perfect timing. The children had just lined up for their lunch of rice, minced beef, and manioc. Manioc is made from a root and is a staple of the diet of people living along the river. Many of the children smiled at us but were more concerned with eating than the mostly light skinned visitors that invaded their school house. Some of the children came over to let us take pictures. We showed them their image that was instantly produced on our digital cameras. Jonathan Floyd even showed two little boys how he recorded a video of them dancing. The inside of the classrooms reminded me of a smaller version of an American elementary school with little desks, all the letters of the alphabet on the wall, and boards displaying the children’s art work.
We left the schoolhouse and walked through the village to look at houses and vegetation. Trees and bushes that grow papayas, garlic, guava, lemongrass and some other natural medicinal remedies were spread throughout the village. They also had a garden. As we walked through we saw the village pet monkey and bright green parrot looking bird. Both were free to roam around. The village also had the same kind of pet dogs we had seen often in the days before.
Before we left, our group stopped by an open market where a few of the residents had set up shop with trinkets they had made by hand including jewelry, blow guns, and wood carvings. I bought my mom a necklace made with seeds from plants in the village and my dad a hand crafted blow gun.
Besides a well, gasoline, and the school lunches all provided by government, the indigenous village was self sufficient. With the nearest hospital hours away by motorboat, the villagers must know what to do when someone is sick or breaks a bone. It was odd to be in a “town” where I did not see a car, electric pole, or even a road. I did, of course, see a soccer field which is a necessity for all villages however big or small. As we left, some of the law students kicked around a soccer ball with several kids in front of the school house. Even though the kids did not know any English and most of us didn’t know any Portuguese, everyone understood when they started to play the game.We got on the boat and headed to the next spot down the Rio Negro. Our boat was parked at a spot that looked like a postcard with two old canoes tied up to huge palm trees. After a lunch of fried catfish, beans, rice, papaya, and watermelon I went for a swim/bath. It is quite a task to tread water, wash your hair, scrub up, and then shave your legs. Hey, we may be in the Amazon, but a girl has to stay clean.
In the afternoon, most of our group packed up a bag to take out into the rainforest for our overnight stay. I have to mention that this was quite the opportunity for our group. None of the previous WVU students had the opportunity to sleep out in the Amazon, but our guide Anand (pronounced an-non-gee) offered and most of us gladly accepted. A few were not up to the challenge of a full night out in the open jungle. We packed up our hammocks we had been sleeping in the nights before and lots of deet. A lot of us found that deet became an adjective in that we had to “deet up” everyday, i.e. put on a lot of bug spray.
As I left off the boat following our guide, Anand, I had to seriously wonder if I was going to ever be seen again. If the jungle hike the day before had taught us anything it was that there are a great deal of dangers in the Amazon. I found my dad’s advice for this trip ringing in my head…”Sarah, don’t take any unnecessary chances.” This was my first trip out of the country and not a great occasion to not take dad’s advice. I decided that Anand was probably the best guide in all of Amazonia and that it was also a once in a lifetime exp
erience. I trekked on.We hiked about a mile into the rain forest until we reached the spot. I felt helpless standing there with my backpack while Anand and his helpers sprung into action making camp. They all wielded big machetes (which I found is a must for the rainforest) chopping palms for the fire shelter, gathering wood, and making fire. They showed us how to tie up our hammocks in small trees. I found out that putting your hammock in two big trees is a bad idea because jaguars can climb the big ones.
Just as every hammock had been hung, it hit. Our group was caught in a typical torrential downpour of the rain forest. Most us grabbed up our hammocks and crowded under the palm fire shelter and a tarp. Some of the guys stayed out in the rain to help the guides. Its hard to explain what a rain storm in the Amazon rain forest is like. It is exciting and electric. (See for yourself by viewing the clip below.)
After the rain finally stopped those of use hiding under the shelter put up our hammocks once again. Anand got the fire going while the rest of us reset up for the night.
We had been eating very well all week on the boat thanks to our cook Antonia, but that night, I officially had the best chicken I have ever, ever tasted. The chicken marinated all day and was brought out to the forest in a big trash bag. I was wary. Anand cut some 3 foot long stick skewers and put the chicken and bananas over the fire. Meanwhile we all made our dinner plate out of big green leaves. When dinner was ready Jenny Flanigan and I parked in a hammock together to share our big chicken skewer and eat. Jenny’s method was to eat the chicken off the skewer, while I used the stick like a shish kabob. We lost out prim and proper ways long ago.After dinner it was already dark. I went to my hammock while some others sat around the fire talking about politics and racial inequalities. To get ready for bed I hung up my shoes and backpack, got in my sleep sack wearing shirt, socks, pants and jacket, armed myself with my head lamp and camera, and then got into my hammock. Rain drops trickling down through the forest canopy kept landing on my head so I cover my face with my rain jacket. At first I kept turning on my light to make sure nothing was in my bed. I thought all of the night sounds and the fear of being eaten, stung, or bit by some creature would keep me awake. However today was a long, long day and I fell asleep rather fast.
Morning came quickly. When I woke up to the daylight, it was 6am. I felt really rested and with no bugs in my bed. I know my mom would really crack up if she knew I got up at 6am voluntarily. We all packed up our hammocks and cleaned up camp then headed out. When I hiked out of the forest and saw our boat, a sense of accomplishment came over me. I had just done something few people in the world will ever have the chance to do, sleep all night in the Amazon. Plus, I lived.
Great to "hear" from the WVU Law "Explorers" and experience Brazil vicariously through, and with, you ! The pictures are excellent ! Try to imagine your trip 25, 50, or 100 years ago ! Tell everyone, "Hi!" for me ! Be careful, be safe, appreciate, and enjoy ! D.
ReplyDeletewhat is it like to experience a torrential downpour in the amazon rainforest? how long does it last? what is the sky like?
ReplyDeleteA rain storm in the Amazon is amazing. It will be beautiful and sunny and within 5 minutes the cloads roll in. The storm doesn't last long but it rains really, really hard. Then the sotrm leaves as quickly as it comes. Within a few the sun is out again.
ReplyDelete