Rio de Janeiro is truly a marvelous place. Everywhere you go in all Rio’s varied neighborhoods, Cristo de Redentor watches over you from his mountain. Thus, sitting in a classroom in Rio seems a fitting setting to have an inter-cultural exchange about religious freedom. As part of our colloquium at the Foundation Getulio Vargas, our class composed of both American and Brazilian students set out to discuss what an “establishment of religion” is in the American sense of the phrase. As part of this discussion our class discussed two very convoluted cases in American jurisprudence over the public display of the Ten Commandments. Religion is often a tense issue in the United States, but in Brazil, it seems not to be so.
Religion is evident everywhere one goes in Brazil, but nowhere is it more so than in Rio. The dominating presence of Christ the Redeemer is the most obvious example, but there are many others. We learned that religion is a part of everyday life in Brazil. While we were touring the Rocinha favela here in Rio, our guide Daniella explained that most religious Brazilians carry some token of their faith with them, or at least keep something reminding them of their faith close at hand. For example, one of our van drivers kept a small statue of the Virgin Mary suction-cupped to his window. Daniella herself wore a silver crucifix about her neck. It was not surprising to learn then from our fellow students at FGV that public displays of religion are not really a talked-about issue here in Brazil. In contrast, religion’s role in government and legislation is a hotly contested debate in the United States.
This is not to say that America is not a religious country. I recently read a figure that approximately seventy percent of Americans attend some form of religious service on a weekly basis, compared to figures in the mid teens to high twenties in most parts of Western Europe. America clearly is a religious state, albeit with a more varied array of religious practices. However, as discussed by our Justice Scalia in one of the cases that we studied, more than ninety five percent of America is made up of Christians, Jews, or Muslims – religions sharing a common ancestry. So, one cannot say that in practice Brazil is so different religiously than the United States. In fact, despite all of our differences, Brazilians are not that much different than Americans.
Although displays of religion are largely prohibited in the United States, while Christ the Redeemer stands boldly above Rio, our goals are no different. We are all simply looking for something to believe in. America, at least in public life, takes a more secular approach, but we both have our symbols of cultural, national, and religious identity, and regardless of their form or function, these symbols help promote the idea that through togetherness we can achieve more than we can apart. And this is truly what this trip has been about for me. When we step outside of our box where we live our day-to-day lives, we can really learn what it is to live together in the world that we all share despite our many differences.
When most people hear the word favela, the first thing they think is “what is that?” In response I reply “Have you seen “City of God” or “The Hulk?” and then the recognition dawns on their faces. Many times I have been asked why I would want to visit such a place. Some would compare visiting a favela to taking a tour through the south side of Chicago or Compton. Although I was not equating the favela, Rocinha with those two areas, I was definitely expecting the worst.
The day started off rainy, dreary, and cold. We put on our warmest clothing and rain jackets while dreading the moment when we had to untie “THE bag.” The bag was a plastic grocery bag most of us (at least us girls) had tied our Amazon jungle shoes up in two weeks prior. Once everything else was done, we all stood out in the rain and untied “the bags” and put on the shoes. (We did this because we feared the smell of the shoes would make the room smell even worse than it already did!). As we bounced along the highway I wondered what we would experience once we got to the favela. I was already imagining myself and my two friends, Whitney and Jenny, sliding down the streets as Whitney tripped over one of her feet and grabbed for us to steady her. I was sure someone was going to wipe out because it was so rainy and I thought the favela had dirt/mud roads.
We arrived at the bottom of the favela and all got out of the van. Next was the fun part. We jumped on motorbikes and headed to the top of the hill zipping in and out of traffic and racing each other. Of course the group did the typical “Ladies First” thing, so we girls got to the top of the favela and were sitting there alone waiting on the rest of the group to join us for about ten minutes. (It’s nice how chivalry is not dead, however I am pretty sure it was more than chivalry that made the guys let us go first!). As we waited at the top of the hill for the guys to join us, I looked around and took in all that was the favela. There were stores and markets, and surprisingly a nicely paved road that ran to the top! Although I am not sure what I thought would be there, I definitely did not think I would see storefronts and other businesses. Also as I waited, I looked around and noticed all of the cable/telephone/electric wires mangled and tied together running to one pole. It looked like if you touched the wires it’d be immediate death by electrocution! From this, it was obvious to see that no one paid for these services; they just tied theirs in to everyone else’s.
When everyone arrived at the top and we were good and soaked from the exhilarating ride up the hill, we were given the ground rules: 1) No taking pictures of the kids with guns or drugs and 2) No taking pictures until we are told it is okay to do so. We started off down a narrow throughway. As we walked, we passed more stores, houses with open doors, and children and parents on their way from school. Walking pass some of the houses I couldn’t help but look in. The house I looked into was about the size of my living room in my one bedroom apartment. There was a bed, couch, and kitchen very close together with a tv in the corner and family photos on the walls. In some of the other homes, there was a kid sitting on the computer on Facebook!
The first stop we made was on top of a building that housed an art studio, which was next to the school. As we stood there in the cold looking out, we listened as our tour guide told us about how much the drug dealers that ran the favela made, and how old he was. The favela brings in $4 million US dollars a week!!! And the man who runs it is 25!!!
The next stop we made, was the art studio. This was a studio that was used to teach the children of the favelas how to draw and practice graffiti. There were gorgeous favela paintings and newspaper clippings about the violence of the favelas and the clashes the drug runners have with police. Because I am a shopaholic, I stopped and purchased two paintings. When I say purchased, I really mean bought them on credit. This artist let other students and I walk out of the studio with the art with the promise to leave the money at the front desk of our hostel so our guide could pick it up later and give it to him. That’s ALOT of trust! I think combined we ended up leaving around 200 reais in the drawer. How many people do you know would let you walk out of a place carrying their merchandise, owing them $200?! There was another section of the room that sold drawings the children had made, and the proceeds from those paintings went to the children and to help fund their art classes. As we wound down the steps, we prepared ourselves to venture out in the rain once again. The next stop after that was the bakery/ convenient store. This place had some of the best looking pastries I had ever seen! Of course Jenny, Whitney, and I had to get a donut filled with dulce de leche (caramel) and sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. DELICIOUS!!! The best ever! I can still taste the rich pastry melting in my mouth. So, after we had stuffed our faces, we continued our walk to burn off the calories we had just eaten! (Yeah rite!)
As we were walking, we came to an area where the children of the favela sold various items that they’d made. There were bracelets made of telephone wire, and more pictures. Many of us had no money, and although we stopped to look, we journeyed on. The next stop was the day care. In my opinion, this was the saddest stop. There were children of various ages asleep on cots or in cribs on various floors because it was nap time. It was a very nice day care...one that was actually funded in part by our tour group (“Be A Local”). Apparently, this is where the money we pay for the favela tour goes to: this daycare and another one in the favela. Once we got to the top floor, there was a landing where we stood and listened to our tour guide answer questions we had about the favela and we watched as she pointed out the various places we had been walking down the favela. It was amazing that we had started all the way at the top, and then slowly made our way to the bottom. Also at this stop we had a great view of the favela. It was at this point that I walked over to Adam McCoy and he said with such despair “This is the most depressing shit I’ve ever seen in my life!”
Once he said that, I realized that I had completely tuned myself out to the favela, and made myself disconnected somewhat from what I was seeing. I realized that had I allowed myself to feel the sorrow that I wanted to; I would not have made it down the hill because I would have been weeping in sorrow. I mean, how could I really FEEL and walk by children who were playing inside doorways which were merely inches from sewage and trash flowing by them in the rain as it washed down to the ocean?! At that moment, I just prayed for everyone in that favela, and for all of those beautiful children that I had just seen lying peacefully in their cribs and cots oblivious to the despair that surrounded them. For me, this experience was more than an “opportunity” to live life like a local, and more than a bunch of photos and stories that I will tell for years to come. It changed my life in ways that I cannot begin to put into words. What I can say, is that I am much more appreciative of what I have and I realize how blessed I really am. I can only hope that this experience doesn’t get catalogued in my classmate’s minds as part of another tour, but rather a blessed opportunity to have a precious glimpse into the lives of those who call home: the favela Rocinha.
Today started out somewhat slowly as many students were out until 4:30 AM last night experiencing Brazilian culture at a “favela funk” party. The party had thousands of attendees in a large warehouse with Brazilian “funk” music playing loudly for the people standing shoulder to shoulder to dance to. The funk party the night before was a good introduction for what we would experience today: a hands-on tour of the Rocinha favela.
The day started ominously enough as the rain came pouring down at our hostel in Rio. Many of us were nervous about the rain because we thought the wet conditions would foster rivers of filth flowing through the favela as we toured it. Clothed in rain jackets and closed-toed shoes, we disembarked for the biggest favela in Latin America.
The tour began exciting enough as each of us hopped on the back of a small motorcycle (moto-taxi) that wove us in and out of traffic as we sped up the mountain on the narrow “main” road full of switchbacks. Once at the top of the mountain, we trekked down the narrow pathways of Rocinha on foot. 300,000 people live in this particular favela in such close proximity that one can’t help but feel claustrophobic just walking between the buildings along a cement path that couldn’t have been more than a meter wide in places.
This particular favela is run by the drug gang Amigos De Amigos (friends of friends). And, sure enough, about half way down the mountain, we were instructed in no uncertain terms to not take pictures of the nice man with a .45 pistol in one hand and a brick shaped object covered in a black plastic bag in the other who told me over and over to “stay with Jesus.”
The seminar following the tour started off with the assertion by a number of students that the favela wasn’t as bad as many of us expected. However, we quickly agreed that that this notion was based more on our low expectation rather than the actual living conditions. To be sure, the living conditions in the favela were deplorable. However, they were not the dirt floor wooden shanties that I think many of us were expecting.
The availability of medical treatment was limited to one first aid clinic at the top of the mountain/favela where the moto-taxis dropped us off. Even in a country with free medical care, access is necessarily limited for a people who live where they do so they can be near where they work. Money for transportation to a hospital, much less spare time from work, don’t appear to be something in abundance for these people.
Also mentioned during the seminar were comparisons of the favela to living conditions in the poorest urban areas of our country. People spoke about how the large government housing projects in the big cities in the U.S. weren’t entirely different from the living conditions in the favela. Both are often associated with drug gangs who often assert the rule and power through violence. Both are also synonymous with violence, both between rival gangs and with police.
However, the people who live in the favelas have no access to any of the government assistance programs we often take for granted in the U.S. Medicare, Medicaid, ease of access for emergency vehicles like ambulances (as there are no suitable roads in the midst of the favela), WIC, federal student loans, etc. All of these programs are aids provided by the government to help people improve their situations and get them out of such poor living conditions. Brazil provides none of these programs to the people who live in the favelas, or anyone else for that matter.
So what on earth were a bunch of American law students doing touring a favela, much less attending a dance party hosted by a favela the night before? Personally, I think it’s a culture thing – these people really seem to take their identity as a favela-dweller very seriously and with a measurable amount of pride. I think it is important to understand that what we as Americans are used to thinking of as impoverished housing conditions are much better than in most parts of the world, but are still embarrassingly bad. As far as safety is concerned, none of you parents out there need to worry. The safest I have ever felt in public in Brazil was in the favelas. There is a saying here that everyone seems to know and follow without question: “those who are wise obey those who give orders.” And even if those giving orders are the gangs, everyone knows not to hurt the gringos.
We were fortunate enough to see the return of Adriano Leite Ribeiro to his hometown team of Flamengo. He played for the Flamengo youth team prior to his senior team debut in the early 2000s, before departing for the Italian Serie A – the first division in the Italian game. Adriano played for a few teams around that league until recent spats with his now-former club, Internazionale. The problems between club and player culminated in a rescission of the contract and, for the player, a move back to the Brasilian club of his youth.
Known simply by the single name Adriano or his nickname Imperador, the Emperor, Adriano’s return to the Maracanã was a celebrated event in Rio. The papers included large pictures of the striker and articles on his return. The Flamengo supporters were anxious to see their star return to form in a Flamengo kit. The players were apparently anxious to get Adriano involved in their play as well.
The match started off with a surge of Flamengo pressure on the Atletico backline, and Flamengo’s strategy was apparent – get quality service in the box to the freshly-returned goal scorer. Adriano found himself in a great goal-scoring position just several minutes into the first half at the back corner of the 6-yard box. Vinícius Barrivieira, Atletico’s goalkeeper, had to parry away a powerful header from Adriano.
The visiting team soaked up the early pressure and exploded on a few counterattacks and even created a few half-chances. They were unable to convert on the few opportunities though. Flamengo continued to move the ball quickly around the midfield, occasionally finding the feet of their forward players. Flamengo’s wide player, Marcio Emerson Passos, known simply as Emerson, was impressive in the early stages of the match. He was making important tackles and causing fits for the Atletico defense. His hard work along the left side of the Flamengo attack paid off in the 14th minute. An attempted cross to none other than Adriano was deflected by an Atletico defender passed Barrivieira into his own goal. The Maracanã erupted.
The first half ended more quietly than it started. The play became chippy as the players fatigued, and the referee’s whistle was active. Atletico’s Rhodolfo was booked in the 45th minute, shortly before the first half ended. The players exited the field and entered the dressing rooms with Flamengo leading 1-0.
The players returned for the second half, and within the first two minutes it had happened. He scored. Flamengo’s creative misdirection in the attacking third ended up finding the 6’3” self-admittedly overweight 197 pound striker’s head. The second celebration in the stadium dwarfed the first as Adriano had his first goal in his first game back in Rio.
Atletico continued attacking at Flamengo, with the most impressive and dangerous work being performed by the winger Marcio Azevedo. He was making long runs on the flank for Atletico and in the 69th minute he hit pay dirt. Barely touching the ball out of reach of the Flamengo centre back, Azevedo was brought down in the box earning his side a penalty. His teammate Rafael Moura converted the spot kick to bring his team within one of equalizing. Atletico committed much to the attack in an attempt to draw even, and both managers made a few changes to their sides.
Flamengo, however, looked the more dangerous of the two sides after Atletico had drawn a goal back, coming close several times to shutting the door on an Atletico come back. At the end of the match, Atletico had done too little and lacked the creativity to earn a point. Flamengo were able to hold on for a 2-1 victory and earn three points in the Brasilian Campeonato.
Adriano’s return was a potential launching pad for Flamengo to make an early season run in the Campeonato. However, Flamengo currently find themselves in the 17th position out of 20 in the league earning only 7 points on 6 games. Currently the bottom dwellers in the 20 team tournament, Atletico are performing even worse with only 5 points on 7 games. Although generally league tables are said not to be too accurate until 10 matches into a season, both sides have their work cut out for them if either intends to contend for the Brasilian domestic title.
I was awakened by the sunlight that peaked through the window of my room when I realized that this was my third day in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. In May of 2010 I will reflect back on this day as I walk across a stage in Morgantown, WV and receive a Doctor of Jurisprudence degree. I will reflect back on a day where we discussed the struggles that many individuals have faced and other individuals continue to face because of their race. As I walk across that stage, I will thank my ancestors for making the day possible. Many of my ancestors were taught that they were less than human and that their heritage made them inferior. Yet in the face of adversity, my ancestors stood up against the evil forces of slavery and Jim Crow which have stained our American flag. I will thank the civil rights movement and other movements for teaching me to love and embrace a very rich heritage which is Black. I will pay special homage to the legacies of J.R. Clifford, Charles Hamilton Houston, and Thurgood Marshall for paving a way for me to actualize my dream of becoming an American lawyer.
My time in Brazil has taught me that becoming a Black Brazilian attorney is not very likely. Like America, Brazil is a nation that has been plagued by a slave trade that has had an extremely negative impact on those of darker complexions. However, unlike America, Brazil has not experienced a civil rights movement which has sought to equalize opportunities for all Brazilians. Because of Brazil’s past, many Black Brazilians are unable to compete with those of lighter complexions when it comes to education. Cultural and other sociological underpinnings in Brazil have made it difficult for Black Brazilians to pass the standardized tests which are required for entry into Brazilian universities. Brazil has recognized the evils of its past and the imbalance of opportunities that have resulted in the educational arena. To this end, many Brazilians favor a quota system that will allow underrepresented and historically suppressed Blacks to finally be given an opportunity to attend Brazilian institutions of higher learning. Unfortunately, some individuals have protested this quota system without providing or suggesting any real alternatives. The protests disregard the effects of Brazil’s history and the stain that has been left on its flag.
Again, my story would be highly unlikely had it not been for the civil rights movement and other movements. One such movement has been expressed through popular culture. Popular culture has taught Black Americans to stand up, to embrace themselves, and to reject any notion that Black is inferior. James Brown instructed African-Americans to profess with triumph, “I’m Black and I’m Proud.” India Arie taught African-Americans to embrace “Brown Skin.” Through fashion, Blacks throughout America bravely stood up and acknowledged their heritage by wearing medallions in the shape of Africa that read 100% Black or 100% African. Similarly, today many Brazilians have stood up by wearing t-shirts that display the words 100% Afro-Brazilian or 100% Favela. Black Brazilians are using fashion and popular culture to express self-love in a nation that continues to discriminate at a tremendous level. So why is this important? This is important because it will require a strong sense of self-worth and resilience for Black Brazil to continue its efforts of overcoming disparities, including those in the educational arena. It is my sincere opinion that a continuation of this type of behavior will make it possible for my Black Brazilian brothers and sisters to have a real opportunity at actualizing the types of dreams that will allow them to receive college degrees and professional forms of employment.
Following a rich discussion on race, these are the thoughts that I have been left with. I carried these thoughts with me when we traveled to watch a Futbol match in Maracanã where thousands of fans watched the Flamengo soccer team win an exciting victory. I watched excited fans wave enormous flags to exclaim their strong favor for their favorite soccer team. While I enjoyed the game, I was left to hope that Brazil will soon be able to fill that enormous stadium many times over with Brazilians waving college degrees in the air. It is my hope that these degrees will be waved by individuals that equally represent all Brazilian races.
For the first time I was able to participate in the Colloquium on Law, Culture and Politics between UVV and WVU Law. When I got to know the event, I was interested in hosting a student from the U.S.A. I was really interested in attending the classes that promised to be in a different style. As I could see, the classes held by American professors had more participation of students than the traditional classes, which gave us a good debate and reflection at the end. What really enriched my knowledge on the U.S. was the experience of hosting an American student, Josh Nightingale. Besides always bothering him with questions about his language or his country, this experience made me talk to his classmates and make them my new friends.
Talking about the classes again, the subjects chosen were really interesting. They brought us several debates about our cultures, involving religious, ethnic, racial, legal and political issues. These classes turned into good debates with the big participation of Brazilian and North American students.
I had the opportunity to join the group when it left Vila Velha and traveled to Rio de Janeiro and participate in many Rio activities. I would like to say that I was really impressed with the fact that they were very interested on seeing the Brazilian social reality with all its problems including the inequality.
On our way to the Favela Funk Party, I got fear for my first reaction. I tried to stay alert the whole time. I, for not being around this kind of environment a lot, felt the same apprehension the American students did. Although, once we arrived, I was able to identify a different social group and understand that diversity. I learned that diversity must be respected and, most of all, cherished. We can say the same for other countries’ cultures too.
Waking up to hear the soft sounds of island funk outside my hostel room, I knew that today was going to be a good day. With the morning came breakfast and a soft stroll on Ipanema beach to check out the surf and the wares that the local merchants were hocking. The first thing that struck me, beyond the beautiful people, was the unbelievable scenery. What seemed like miles of pristine beaches was bordered by lush mountain sides (the locals call them hills...yea right). After purchasing what I am sure was a `hot´ jersey for my roommate (your welcome Mick), I hustled back to the world renowned Impanema Beach House to meet up with the rest of the group for our jammed packed day.
The first stop was the Christo Redentor or Christ the Redeemer. Upon letting off near the top of the hill a couple of monkeys creeped toward the group. It was a good reminder that we were still right next to the heart of a jungle. As we started up the mountain to see the statute, I found myself in awe of the number of kiosks that sold souvenirs. To make matters worse, when we got to the top of the mountain inside the Christ statute was a church where one could buy t-shirts. While I don´t consider myself particularly religious, I found it a little troubling. I think Professor cummings said it best when he said that to many in Rio, the statute was more akin to the Statute of Liberty than a religious symbol.
Beyond the statute, and oh by the way the view, the taking of our group picture was unbelievable. What made it so fun was the instructions that were given on how to get everyone out of the way; big guys make a wall and push everyone out of the way, and than take a step down for the small people. Seeing Kwame Samuda and Steve Broadwater gently nudging people out of the way was priceless. [It is noteworthy, and makes the joke a heck of a lot funnier, that both gentlemen played college football as lineman.]
On my way down the mountain to meet with the busses I found out that Brazilian Doritos taste nothing like the American counterpart. It was one more thing to add to the list of things in Brazil that were oddly similar yet completely different.
After boarding the busses we drove over to an old church that had an amazing view of the downtown region of Rio. It also had some very odd steps which many people, including myself, found to be particularly hard to navigate. Some of us even fell flat on our face. This made for some great moments which could win the million dollar prize on America’s Funniest Videos.
After that little trek, the group made its way down to catch a trolley that would lead to the center of town. When the trolley pulled up it became apparent that we were all not going to fit. But that did not stop us from pouring onto the trolley. To save space in on a bench that was already full, I sat with Laura Wakim on my lap. When the seats were all gone, people started hanging on to the side of the trolley. But some people were still left without space, including Kwame Samuda. So with a little push Kwame squeezed into the already full bench. [Again, think big college football lineman] Needless to say, I got to know my neighbors on the trolley very well. With everyone onboard [it is questionable whether one could say safely onboard] the trolley pulled away from the station. Within the first minute the trolley almost collided with a bus, and almost took out some of our students who were hanging on to the trolley. This was a foreshadowing of things to come. From the top of the mountain to the bottom, people who were hanging on had to deal with a wall that scrapped the back of their shoes, almost hitting several more cars and being exposed to a thirty foot drop.
Once at the bottom, we steadied ourselves. Everyone needed a second to make sure that they were alright and that nothing was missing. We then proceeded over to the Metropolitan Cathedral. The outside of the building was reminiscent of an Aztec Temple. To be blunt, it was ugly. It was a big concrete structure that towered up like a pyramid.
While the outside was ugly, the inside was very beautiful. It was a big open space with pews and a massive crucifix hanging right over the pulpit. It had four big stained-glass murals that went from the floor to the ceiling, one on each wall. My only problem with the cathedral was that there was a gift shop in the church. Maybe it is just me, but I find it a bit blasphemous to be selling trinkets and postcards in a church. I guess I am old fashioned that way.
After exiting the church, the group loaded up the vans and headed for the hills; specifically, Sugar Loaf Mountain. The plan was to watch sunset at Sugar Loaf Mountain. Unfortunately, by the time we got to the mountain, it was already dark. But that gave us a great opportunity to see Rio at night. To get to Sugar Loaf Mountain, one had to ride two separate gondolas. The first gondola ride brought one to a staging area where, of course, souvenirs were sold. The second gondola brought one straight up to the top of the mountain. If one was afraid of heights, this probably was not the best mode of transport. Before the trip we were all warned by Adam McCoy that if we rocked the boat, so to speak, he would be very angry.
While the ride was a little nerve racking, it was well worth the view. The most spectacular part of the view was seeing the Christo Redentor. It was a relatively cloudy night, but the clouds were only sitting on top of the mountains; the city was completely visible. Add the slight cloud cover with a lit up Christo Redentor and you get an almost surreal scene. Unfortunately, pictures do not do this scene justice. As the day came to an end, we were whisked off to the Ipanema Beach House for a good nights rest [wink].
Each time that we have switched locations, I have awoken in my “new” bed, confused for a moment about where in the world I am. Saturday morning was no different. It was our first morning in Rio, staying in a cute little hostel called the “Ipanema Beach House.” The Beach House lives up to its name, as it is only a few blocks from both the beach and shopping. My classmate Tyler and I, self-proclaimed early risers, decided to go walk on the beach while everyone else was getting ready to start the day. The famous Ipanema Beach was very rough this morning. There were huge waves, the biggest I have ever seen in person, which looked like they would swallow any potential swimmers whole. We walked on the sand, enjoying the sights of other early risers playing volleyball and paddle ball on the beach. Our tour guide Julio later said that everyone in Rio does lots of exercise so that they can “show off” their in-shape figures at Ipanema Beach. Tyler and I decided to stop at a little kiosk that sells beverages to buy a coconut to drink. The vendor lops off the top of the green coconut and sticks in two straws to drink up the sweet, cold coconut water. After finishing our coconut water, we begrudgingly left the beach, excited for the eventful and touristy day that was ahead.
The first stop was the iconic Christo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer), one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. Vans took us to the top of the huge mountain on which the Christo resides, overlooking the city with outstretched arms and a bowed head. The view from the Christo Redentor is phenomenal, but is also difficult to describe. The entire city is visible as you climb the steps to the somber Redeemer. On one side of Rio, it is very beautiful. There is glistening water, beautiful buildings and a well-developed, organized city. On the other side of the city, however, the opposite is true. The hills are lined with favelas, shanty-buildings stuck on the sides of the mountains where hundreds of thousands of people live. But Christo Redentor watches over the whole city, rich and poor, dark and light, the beautiful beaches and the ugly underbelly.
Back in the vans, we passed a favela that was ironically named the Favela of Pleasures. Seeing that we were interested, Julio began to explain how favelas are set up. Drug dealers are the overlords of favelas, Julio explained. There is a system of laws set up by the drug lords; enforced by fear or violence or both. Julio explained that the people living there are people that work, often long hours, but either cannot afford to live elsewhere or even prefer to live there because they feel safe there. When I asked whether the drug overlords follow their own laws, Julio laughed. (One of the many things I have learned on this trip is that you never want to hear you tour guide laugh). ‘The drug lords do what they want,’ he said with a bit of a smirk. If you hear fireworks, he said, this often means that drug shipments have arrived. (I tried not to think about the fact that I often heard fireworks while staying in Vila Velha, where my host lived near a favela.) The drug dealers send out children to scope for outsiders and police, he explained. From this description, I wondered how the residents of the Favela of Pleasures could possibly feel any safety or pleasure.
The vans drove us to Santa Teresa, an artsy neighborhood that can best be described as Bohemian. We shopped a bit, where I found a store that my friend Whitney aptly described as selling the remnants of some interesting person’s life. The store sold little cards with dates on the back, cards that looked like they were collected over a lifetime, death announcements and birth announcements and programs from Catholic mass. The card that I remember showed a picture of a young girl, the writing explaining in Portugese how the girl died at age 9 and announcing the date of her funeral. The cards are creepy, Whitney and I remarked, but I remember this card quite vividly in my head. I wished that I could read Portuguese, so I might know how this young little girl died at age 9 in 1942. It was one of the many times I wished I had spent more time learning Portuguese before coming to Brasil.
Next, we rode a trolley and walked to a Cathedral. (I use the term trolley loosely). Many of the boys and some of the brave girls saved themselves 60 centavos (the equivalent of about 30 cents) by riding outside of the rickety trolley and hanging on to the handles while we passed buildings and bridges. It was the best 60 centavos I spent, to have a seat on the trolley rather than a handle to hold on to. “Just a little bit of danger,” said Professor cummings about the trolley ride. “Just a little bit of danger” may well be the Brasil trip’s next slogan.
Next was a visit to the Steps of Selaron, the beautiful, colorful and eccentric “Stairway to Heaven,” complete with tiles from all parts of the world. Interestingly, these steps were part of Snoop Dog’s video “Beautiful.” The artist, Selaron, lives and works in the middle of the steps. He is as colorful and eccentric as the steps themselves.
We ended the day with a tram ride up to Sugarloaf at sunset. Again we got to see a beautiful new perspective of the city of Rio. The sunsets in Brasil are gorgeous, and the timing of the tram ride to the top of the mountain was a perfect way to see the sunset against the city. The Christo Redentor was illuminated against the dark night sky, watching over the many happenings of the night.
As we drove back to the hostel later that evening, I reflected on all the happenings of the day; the interesting conversations that seem to happen when one travels with others. The conversations have been, at least to me, the best part of the trip. Great conversations between professors and students (in class and outside of class); between my classmates and myself, talking about things we may never have spoken about in West Virginia; between Americans and Brasilians, exchanging ideas and culture and dance moves; between the Americans in Brasil and our friends, significant others and family at home in the States, describing the places we have seen and the places we will go. That is what the Brasilian experience has been to me: open ears, open minds, and, just like the great Redeemer on the mountaintop, open arms.
Today we left the world of Vitoria/ Villa Vehla and Espirto Santo and took our first step into world number 3 of this amazing trip: Rio De Janerio. To this point we have done and learned so much, Amazonas and Vitoria are wonderful and interesting places. This day was no different. It was a day of transition and difficulty; and yet, excitement and more new experience. Our day began with our host family. Most of us spent time talking, taking pictures, and packing. After a big night at an awesome club last night, the morning began for most of us with a little hangover, and for some of us with a lot of hang over. Even so, the headaches left and the emotions set in as we began to pack and head to the airport. I met at one of my host’s parents and ate a small breakfast with them. Talking was nice because by this time we had created a new ½ English and ½ Portuguese language that we both finally understood and could use (along with Google translator for the difficult words). My host family had been so wonderful and generous. Somy final pictures with them caused some emotions to stir just before we left.
The emotions continued at the airport, where we met with the rest of our group with hosts at noon. I say this loosely because in Brazil time works quite differently. I haven’t quite figured the system out yet but I do know that "Five minutes" means at least one hour, and nobody is on time for anything.
Those at the airport before the plane started taxiing down the runway shared quite a moment. Americans and Brazilian both wept even though we only knew each other for one week. Information was exchanged and most of us boarded the plane, wearily looking toward our next great adventure.
Time working as it does in Brazil, there was no exception for our plane. A few members of our group had to run at a full sprint to catch our plane which was holding up for them because of a leisurely final tour of Vitoria that their hosts gave them. As a side note, this example is emblematic of the Brazilian time keeping system, and also displays how I cannot grasp it: I mean we said noon, and somehow that meant 2:00pm. After practically waiving down the plane to get on board on the runway, we were all together again. This marked a gathering of all of us and our stuff for the first time since we arrived in Vitoria. We would now leave for Rio and yet another adventure.
The plane ride was short and I still do not know what that food was, but I ate it like a good little Gringo. Most tried to sleep but only got a neck cramp, the result from most plane rest. When we arrived in Rio the feelings of sorrow were carefully moved to the back of our minds as excitement for this new place took over our attention. Rio, as we saw it flying, looked huge which filled me and my fellow travelers with a gamut of emotions.
First order of Rio business: our hostel. The Ipanema Beach House is in a beautiful and affluent area, and we were all excited for some rest in our rooms. I had some suspicious optimism as I had stayed in a hostel before. As it turns out the hostel was quite nice in most ways. It has a pool, a pool table, a bar, two nice patios, and many other amenities. After a lengthy check-in process, we went to our rooms. For most of us, this meant a very cramped room: 3-high bunk beds with 9 people and all of our stuff in a room only slightly larger than my bathroom. So, the logistics of bed assignments, placement of luggage, assignment of lockers, etc. was difficult but we finally worked it out.
Then, a diligent messenger arrived with a message from afar. Apparently the main girl’s dorm had a door facing outside and a bathroom they shared was similar with an outside sink. The messenger hailed from the girl’s room. He carried the message that the girls were willing to give to us the air conditioned bunk if we were willing to use the outside bathroom – a proposed room switch. As reasonable law students and generally well educated men, we carefully considered the issue for 3 seconds and gave them a resounding “NO.” This answer was because the evenings had been cool, not necessitating an air conditioner. Further, we had a balcony and (mostly) we had just spent 2 hours working out the logistics of our room and were not willing to go through that again. We sent the messenger back with our negative response and no counter proposal, or at least no reasonable one.
So the girls were stuck in the their room and us in ours. We readied for the next item on our agenda: a Samba club. The Rio Scenarium was very nice and we met some of the Brazilian FGV students that we would be studying with for the week. The place was beautiful and the music unique. Some danced, and most drank. Yet the travel and the long night before had taken its toll. So, we decided have a more laid back and less lengthy night than before. Around 2 am, those who had not left by taxi around 1, headed for the bus which put an end to our first day in Rio.
On the ride home I looked at the streets of Rio and was filled with enthusiasm despite my exhaustion. Most of us had felt this at one point during the day: maybe on the plane ride, at the hostel, or driving through town. It was the feeling that Rio is one of the biggest most complicated cities in the world and we are experiencing it first hand, discussing problems and legal issues in classes and seminars, seeing a side of Rio that a normal tourist does not see, and experiencing people and things unknown to us but undoubtedly fascinating. Also, this city is the last we will see in Brazil. So we worked hard to push the thoughts of what awaited us back home out of our mind, while we enjoyed a complex excitement unlike any other (which was aided by the knowledge that Montazuma´s revenge had finally left our group).
Laying in bed the thoughts of Rio and our last place of adventure in Brazil continued and Fredrich Nietzsche’s quote came to mind. While we felt the difficult emotions of leaving our friends from Vitoria, which continued to lie in the back of our mind, we also felt the emotions and excitement of a new city and had so much to do and learn.
As trips do, this one has flown by and I realized it was my last day in Vitoria and I was heading to Rio de Janeiro. I repacked the mess that had become my suitcase with the help of my host, Karoll. We lugged my luggage down the two flights of stairs from her flat, climbed into a taxi, and headed off to the airport. After checking in at the aeropuerto, all the students headed upstairs to say goodbye to the people who had been our companions for the week. There were hugs, kisses, tears, and many photographs. The goodbye was bittersweet as I crossed the tarmac to board the plane and head to the most famous city in Brazil, Rio de Janeiro.
The flight to Rio de Janeiro was surprisingly short, considering the change that I was about to encounter. Rio is a city of eight million with the famous beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana. Now I didn’t see Lola or the girl from Ipanema when I landed, but I did see a beautiful and unique city. The sheer size of the city makes Vitoria and Vila Velha pale in comparison. For one thing, when the plane landed we exited through a gate, not onto the runway. The group was picked up in vans by Luiz our coordinator for the last leg of our Brazilian excursion. As we drove from the airport I received my first view from the city on the ground. I could see the favellas high on the hills and I realized the vastness of the issues with favellas in Rio. Then everything went dark. I had entered the main tunnels that connected north and south Rio. When I emerged I got my first glimpse of how the other side of Rio lives. Huge flats on the lagoon, views of the beaches, and a street with shopping that rivals Fifth Avenue.
I arrived at the Ipanema Beach House; our home for the next week. The hostel is located two blocks from the beach and has an amazing and hospitable staff, which kindly put up with 27 American students dominating the hostel. The girls were placed in a dorm type room with three sets of three high bunk beds. Part of the guys were in a similar type dorm and a few double rooms. The group had a short meeting by the pool and the hammocks in the back of the hostel. I got settled in and set out to explore a little.
We walked the area and took in the cafes, restaurants, shops, and people of Rio. The excursion was a short one due to the fact that the group was headed to the Brazilian steak house (Churrascaria). I began with the massive salad bar. The choices were overwhelming. I chose a little of everything and waited on the main course. If you have never been to a Brazilian steakhouse here is how it works: the waiters continually bring around different types and cuts of meet and slice it onto your plate, while placing different side dishes on the table. After a satisfying meal and shared bottles of wine the group headed to a bar to meet the students of Fundação Getúlio Vargas (FGV).
We ended up the famed Rio Scenarium bar in Lapa, in the heart of Rio de Janeiro where the street resembles the French Quarter and Bourbon Street. People were having coffee and wine on the sidewalks in cafes and bars up and down the block. The bar has an eclectic feel that seemed to be what is at the heart of Rio itself. The FGV students welcomed us. We ate, drank, and talked. I sat down to spend my first evening in Rio with a view of the lights of the city and good friends. Finally exhaustion set in and I headed back to the hostel where I changed, climbed up to the top bunk, and laid down pondering what tomorrow’s tour of Rio de Janeiro would bring.
by Shalom Confessor de Aguiar do Amaral General-Coordinator of the Superior War College President and Founder, Instituto Política Global (Global Policy Institute)
When I was packing my bags to move to West Virginia University College of Law for a semester of studies, I had no idea of how my life was about to change. It was in the fall semester of 2005. I had the priviledge of being chosen as an exchange student for WVU Law by professors andré cummings and Kevin Outterson to join law classes for a semester and move to the States. First, it was nice to arrive in the U.S. to witness the poetic impressions of the wealthiest country in the world, the people’s way of life, the leaves falling from the maple trees, etc... But then, the real thing began: Hard Classes. For a Brazilian, it wasn’t an easy task to follow the socratic method of classes and for an International Relations studant as myself, to understand the juridical vocabulary in a language other than Portuguese. But, any effort would be worth it.
After a semester of classes in the US, I came back to Brazil full of good memories and great friends left behind, not knowing the future that was waiting for me... I came back to my country and finished my International Relations studies. Soon, I applied to the Superior War College Graduate’s Association Course of Studies in Policy and Strategies. I did it! The semester of studies at WVU College of Law was a surplus distinction on my curricullum. After a year of studies at the War College, they asked me to join their board of directors as Director of Communications. I was pleased at that time as I became the youngest person ever to be in a charge like this in this renowned institution (I was only 27). After a year in that position, I received the invitation to join the charge I am currently in. I became the General-Coordinator of the Superior War College Graduate’s Association in the state of Espírito Santo, Brazil. I am also the President and Founder of an Institute that is widely supported by big companies and universities in the country, called Instituto Política Global (Global Policy Institute).
Now I can look back to my past and consider the point of choosing whether or not to be in the WVU Law-Brazil Program and I am proud of the choices I’ve made in my life. For sure to be in this program was decisive to my future. Every year after I came back, I have been in the program as lecturer, supporter and encouraging sudents to do the same as I did. We have built a great and storng partnership with the Coordinator of this program Professor andré cummings, who became more than a professional contact, but an adviser and a big friend... This engagement represents the success of this program. Thanks a lot to Professor andré cummings and to WVU College of Law for this life-changing (for better) experience.
GOOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLL!!!! And as if one drawn out call was not enough, the commentator of the soccer game I was watching started up again - GOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLAAAAAASSSSSSSOOOOOO!!! The Brasilians love to be active and love to have a good time doing it. As my host Camila said when she described the way English and American soccer commentators announce a score (with a simple, boring, almost depressed “GOAL!!”), “Where's the fun in that? Let's commemorate!” Her shoulders and arms began to move as if dancing when she said this because sitting still was just not an option.
When I looked down on the beach from high above in my room for the week (thanks again for the hook-up Camila and family!), I saw the athletic nature of the Brasilian people immediately. The walking trail was anything if not crowded as plenty of locals were running, biking, and even skate boarding. Beach goers were playing soccer-volleyball and paddleball, and there was no shortage of runners along the meeting point of sand and water. Apart from Brasiĺs love of soccer and Steeler-esque domination of World Cup titles, its people simply love being sportive.
We embarked for Guarapari around mid-morning. Guarapari is a famous beach in Espirito Santo; we settled in Meaipe at the beach for the day. Once there it took only moments for the soccer ball to come out. Although this was my doing, a couple of our Brasilian hosts joined me very quickly for a juggling session. Trying to mesh in with the Brasilian way, several of us ventured over the soccer field on the beach to play some futebol. Many of our students started a game of our similarly-named version of the game after lunch. While they were playing, another soccer game broke out amongst some of the locals, and younger kids were enjoying the surf with wake boards.
Following our day at the beach, we returned to our hosts’ homes, changed for the night and met together at Shalom’s rooftop for our class/seminar for the day. We had a lot about the differences between the Brasilian legal system and our own in the United States. We discussed the similarities and the glaring differences between the Civil Law system as practiced in Brasil and the Common Law system practiced at home. Brasil seems to have recently adopted a new, hybrid approach that more often pays attention to precedent. The seminar was engaging and we enjoyed hearing the perspectives of the six or seven Brasilian students that joined our discussion that night.
Following seminar, I was not surprised to see that the Brasilians even convert a night out into an exercise of, well, exercise. As soon as we entered Sao Fimino night club with our UVV friends for our last evening together, the hips, feet, shoulders, and arms started moving to the music. The Brasilians seem not to be able to resist their inherent sense of fun and movement - especially when live music is involved. Everyone enjoyed our last night at the dance club (cough cough prof. cummings cough we all saw cough cough you dancing cough), and it was difficult to differentiate between the Brasilians and the Americans at times. The way the Brasilians move is incredible and healthy apparently. One student thought it so odd that my hip could crack. She was dumbfounded.
Our last night with our hosts was a memorable one. They had been so hospitable and warm; it was nice to enjoy one last evening. The Brasilians seem to incorporate an element of activity or fun in everything they do, and our friends from Espirito Santo were no exception. Thanks again to everyone back at UVV!!
Professor DiSalvo has long said that a major function of law school should be to make each student into a “public person.” A public person, Professor DiSalvo explains, is one who can lead groups of people and can comfortably speak in front of any group of people, be it a small church group or 10,000 people. On Wednesday night, Kevin Watson and Kurt Doiron showed that the West Virginia University College of Law also helps produce public persons that are ready to hop onstage at a moment́s notice, strap on instruments, and put on a display of great rocking power in the city of Vitoria, some 4500 miles away from home.
We had been hanging out in The Office, a local club, listening to the live band́’s mix of Brazilian and American music late into the evening. During a break between the band́s sets, KJ and Kurt asked the band if they could use their instruments and play some tunes. The band agreed, and Kurt got behind the drums, while KJ picked up an electric guitar. KJ and Kurt have never played music together, but that didn’t stop them from putting on a great show of some choice cover tunes. They started with Sublime’s "What I Got" and Lynyrd Skynrd́s “Sweet Home Alabama” before ending their impromptu set with a mandatory “Country Roads” jam session. The audience - particularly the WVU students - were loving “Country Roads” and had all gathered near the front of the stage for some ragged group vocals. Clearly, West Virginia is always in our hearts, even when we’re far from home.
Admittedly, KJ and Kurt́’s set was rough around the edges, but so is all of the best rocḱnroll! The “feel” was there and it was an amazing thing to see our classmates on stage in Vitoria, putting on a great show. It was an event that none of us - particularly KJ and Kurt - will soon forget.
One of the most interesting aspects of Brazilian culture is a willingness to speak directly without much consideration for social stigmas. Late one afternoon I was invited to speak with some freshmen students that were learning English at UVV, and during our conversation we wandered into some controversial territory. Our discussion seemed to focus on the differences between typical American perceptions of Brazil and the reality I came to know during my visit. Despite my trepidations, I just spoke my mind. It gave me the kind of feeling you get when you break up with someone and you’re telling them what you really think. However, unlike a break up situation where each party departs in anger and frustration, our discussion fostered more of an understanding about one another and led to the discovery of new similarities between our two cultures.
Today we woke up and met at the school around 10 a.m. This was the first day that we got to sleep in, but I have to admit that I did not get much sleep. I had been waiting for this day since we first arrived in Manaus. Today we toured the Garoto Chocolate Factory. We arrived at the factory at 11 a.m. and proceeded to put on our hair nets and protective clothing. Needless to say none of us are very upset that Garoto wouldn’t allow cameras on the tour. We all waited to divide up in groups for our tour, and many were surprised that I didn’t jump to go on the first tour, but little did they know that I had done my homework and spoke with my host, Monique, so that I could really make the most out of our visit. I waited until there were only six of us left, and we made up the final group to tour the factory. As excited as i was to get to the factory, I knew that by going in the final group we would not be rushed at the sample stations, and thus we would be able to eat as much chocolate as we wanted.
As soon as we entered the factory we were all overcome by the smell of chocolate. Our first stop was the line where they make filled chocolates. Most of us found ourselves with our hands in our pockets trying not to reach on the line to take a piece. The hardest part was passing by a bucket of "mistakes," which looked perfect to all of us. After we finished seeing how they fill the chocolate we were able to sample six different kinds of chocolate. Again, I had gotten some insider info to not fill up at the first station because they save the best candy for the end of the tour. At the next stop we were able to see where they make bon bons. First they made the shell, then they filled the shell with different fillings, and finally it was coated with a dark chocolate and then a second coat of milk chocolate. Next, we saw how they box the finished product before finally ending our tour with a final tasting. Our tour ended with a trip to the Garoto store, where we all stocked up on chocolate to bring home to our family and friends, or in my case, chocolate that I will give to people and end up eating every time I visit their house.
From the chocolate factory, we all loaded onto our bus and headed to lunch at La Villa. After lunch we visited Pehna Convent (pictured, left). As much as I loved Garoto, this turned out to be my favorite place that we have visited thus far. We arrived at the bottom of a very long cobblestone road that was surrounded by the forest with the option to walk or catch a bus. I attempted to make the walk with Professor Blumenthal, but about halfway up we gave up and caught a ride. When we arrived at the top we found ourselves at the foot of the convent. It stands on top of a bed or rocks and is painted white with blue trim. Once you climb the stairs, you reach a point where you can see Vitoria and Vila Velha and the bridge that connects the two cities. It was one of the most amazing views that I have ever seen with the two enormous cities, the ocean, and the mountains surrounding us. We then entered the 450 year old convent, which is filled with statues and paintings. It was so beautiful and peaceful that most of us found ourselves walking alone and simply trying taking it all in. There were also several people inside the chapel praying. It was a great experience for the group and something that I will never forget.
We left the convent and returned to UVV where our hosts were waiting to take us home. We had a free evening to spend with them. Some of our group went to a small bar to watch a soccer game, but Monique and her mother took me to this amazing bakery with stands of fresh bread and baked goods. After a day of chocolate this was probably the last thing that I needed, but it was delicious. We then went home for a little while before heading to the mall. Every student that I met from UVV was nothing short of amazing, but I am confident that I was so lucky to be placed with Monique. At the mall she surprised me with photos that she had taken through out the week and a teddy bear to take back to West Virginia to remember her by, not that there was a chance that I could forget her or her amazing family.
Today was a really great day. We all had a lot of fun at the chocolate factory and lunch and followed that with a truly amazing trip to the convent and some free time to spend with our host families.
Participating students are studying international and comparative law in Brazil. Lectures and seminars are led by West Virginia University College of Law professors, with some lectures in Rio & Vitória from Brazilian professors. All lectures are in English. Students are visiting Brazilian legal institutions in addition to taking classes at Brazilian law schools. Seminars are taking place throughout the trip on various topics, including international environmental law in the Amazon at a jungle lodge.
by Adam McCoy
Although displays of religion are largely prohibited in the United States, while Christ the Redeemer stands boldly above Rio, our goals are no different. We are all simply looking for something to believe in. America, at least in public life, takes a more secular approach, but we both have our symbols of cultural, national, and religious identity, and regardless of their form or function, these symbols help promote the idea that through togetherness we can achieve more than we can apart. And this is truly what this trip has been about for me. When we step outside of our box where we live our day-to-day lives, we can really learn what it is to live together in the world that we all share despite our many differences.
